Troubleshooting Part 3:

Ford Power Stroke

August 2014 Feature Michael Deulley

Pre-Power Stroke Engines

Lind admits that although the Fords in the early years were tough and nearly bulletproof, the IDI engines within were short on horsepower, making them fairly unexciting and often times outright boring. The 6.9L IDIs have been found to have reliability issues that were later addressed with the introduction of the 7.3L variation, but as pre-Power Stroke owners love their trucks and often repair whatever problems arise in an effort to extend the longevity of their classic Fords, Lind has compiled some useful information to reference for the golden oldies.

Both engine variations use an indirect injection system that tends to suffer from chronic leaking and air issues, so a list has been compiled to give owners a few initial checklist items to pay attention to. Firstly, Lind suggests looking for leaking cloth-covered return lines and injector return-Ts. If these items are found to be wet, they will inevitably have to be replaced. Earlier models have green clamps, while later models utilized red clamps. Lind iterates that if owners are prepared to take this project on by themselves, be sure to identify and buy the correct clamps for the job. Along with leaky lines, fuel filters have been found guilty of the same offense. Filters can easily loosen over time or contain a bad seal. If this happens, the system tends to suck in air when the truck is parked. This problem can easily be fixed with a simple replacement, but owners should do their best to check the filters on a regular basis to see if something is amiss. The early Ford's injector pumps wear out over time, and if drivers notice stalling or deceleration symptoms while on the road, inspection of the pump is the perfect place to start. The last chronic issue in the IDI system relates to the glow plugs.

"The glow plug system just plain stinks. Individual plugs can go bad, but often times the controller fails," said Lind.

The controller comes in at around $300, but Lind suggests that a simple push-button setup is a great solution to the controller failure.

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